Boyer Bransden installation

YAMAHA XS650 KLUB DANMARK

XS650 Boyer Bransden Ignition Installation: taget fra 650motorcycles.com
	Micro Power Digital Ignition System Stock ignition breaker points above on the left hand side of the motor. Left and right sides are designated as such when sitting on a motorcycle facing forward in the riding position. This is a 1975 model XS 650. This ignition fits all years. Two mounting screws are removed and the old points plate is removed exposing the points cam. The 10 mm nut and lockwasher are removed and the points cam comes off the governor rod and then the rod through the center of the camshaft slides out the other (right) side. Remove two small "C" clips and the mechanical advance governor flyweights are removed from the pivot pins. The governor rod is slid out of the camshaft and not used with the new ignition system. Use a punch to loosen the ring nut that holds the advance unit in place. The advance unit will come off a little at a time as the ring nut is removed. (counter clockwise / anti-clockwise). The above items are removed and only a stepped bushing with a nut and washers will be installed on this side. Stock troublesome governor rod, advance unit and points plate are all removed permanently. The new ignition "hall effect" magnet trigger is secured with stud and bearing locktite on one end of the 8mm threaded rod provided. This simple rod mounts the ignition trigger magnet assembly centered solidly through the camshaft with the machined shoulder on the left above, and the stepped bushing on the right fitting the original camshaft bore. . Magnetic pickup mounting plate bolts right in where the old points plate was. Steel washers provided go under the heads of the allen bolts (shcs) provided and the two machined aluminum spacers go behind the plate to hold it in the proper mounting position. Small metal dowels provided in the mounting holes for the coil save damage to the plastic coil mounting flange. Coil with steel mounting spacers on the left, aluminum mounting spacers shown where they go on the rear of the timing plate center, magnet trigger shown installed with red locktite on the 8mm mounting rod at the top right. Magnetic trigger in its installed position in the camshaft left end. Stepped bushing, flat washer, lock washer, and the nut that secure the rod are all that goes on the right side end. With the crank position set at the total lead position (shown below) the timing magnets are set with the white dot of paint on either magnet visable centered in the timing setting hole provided in the sensor plate at the red arrow above. The mark at number 4 above is the TDC (top dead center) timing mark that is in the center of a small square recess in the stator that is bolted and keyed to the left end of the crankshaft. Set that rotor TDC mark (#4) to line up with the line at # 3 above. Number 3 is the total lead mark where the timing is set. All you do is turn the crank with a 17mm socket to line up #3 and #4 above, and set the white dot on either magnet in the previous image above this one at the red arrow in the timing index hole and that's it. You can check the timing with a timing light later if you like, or advance or retard it to your liking. Number 2 was used for setting the points, and number 1 indicates when the pistons are at top dead center. I moved the rubber coated control box #1 (above) from the center of the forward frame cavity, it slid on bracket #2. I tie wrapped it with wire ties to the unused right hand coil bracket. Then I bent down the forward bracket #2 to allow the digital control box to be located in that empty forward space. (see below also) The flasher #3, I simply turned around the rubber mounting bracket to offset it to the right side and allow room to mount the new coil on the old left hand coil mounting bracket. I sandwiched the solid state control box in some foam padding in its final position behind the steering head. I made two coil mounting spacers from some 3/8" OD stainless tubing that are 1.250" long. Any type of plumping pipe or spacers could be used. 12-24 screws fit through the supplied small coil mounting flange dowels perfectly. Washers are on each side are to prevent crushing the plastic flange and they fit against the metal dowel inserts that come in the coil. Stock left hand coil mounting bracket gets one 1/4" hole drilled in it. I mounted the new coil on the front two holes above, and used the old rear mounting hole for a chassis/engine ground. Coil mounting bolts are tightened with red locktite on the screws. I ran the red wire from the digital control box with the spade connector already crimped on it to the + terminal marked on the coil, then cut it in the center at the fold above to bring switched voltage through the stock power supply red wire with the white tracer from the stock female double bullet connector. (see below image) I installed the 2 male bullet connectors provided with the kit and plugged them right into the stock harness power connector to the old coils above. Now switched voltage goes to the coil, and to the digital control box. The black wire from the control box plugs right on the negative coil connection. The white wire from the control box I ran to ground (earth) and bolted it in the old unused stock coil mounting hole above. The only other connections are the pair of wires at the top above, (black with a white tracer, and black with a yellow tracer) they simply plug into the pair coming from the magnet trigger sensor plate. That's all the connections except for the high tension spark plug wires! (below) I soldered on the special high tension wire coil terminal connectors. The spark plug wire length provided I cut exactly in half, and those lengths worked fine for both cylinders. The new NGK resistor plug caps (also provided) have a self tapping screw in the end that you screw right in to the spark plug wire. Everything is shown in this one image, all the wire connections and where they go, except the spark plug wire on the right side! This tester I made long ago by soldering a spark plug on a clip, that is clamped on the connector end of a spark plug, and the plug wire is installed on to it. Both plugs will fire while the engine is running. (below) The ignition system improves starts, idle and revs through the rpm range perfectly. It has a big fat spark, shown above while the engine is running! The ignition is firing the engine spark plug and the tester spark plug at the same time on the right hand side!

XS650 Boyer Bransden Ignition Installation: taget fra 650motorcycles.com

Micro Power Digital Ignition System

Stock ignition breaker points above on the left hand side of the motor. Left and right sides are designated as such when sitting on a motorcycle facing forward in the riding position. This is a 1975 model XS 650. This ignition fits all years.

Two mounting screws are removed and the old points plate is removed exposing the points cam.

The 10 mm nut and lockwasher are removed and the points cam comes off the governor rod and then the rod through the center of the camshaft slides out the other (right) side.

Remove two small "C" clips and the mechanical advance governor flyweights are removed from the pivot pins.

The governor rod is slid out of the camshaft and not used with the new ignition system.

Use a punch to loosen the ring nut that holds the advance unit in place.

The advance unit will come off a little at a time as the ring nut is removed. (counter clockwise / anti-clockwise).

The above items are removed and only a stepped bushing with a nut and washers will be installed on this side.

Stock troublesome governor rod, advance unit and points plate are all removed permanently.

The new ignition "hall effect" magnet trigger is secured with stud and bearing locktite on one end of the 8mm threaded rod provided.

This simple rod mounts the ignition trigger magnet assembly centered solidly through the camshaft with the machined shoulder on the left above, and the stepped bushing on the right fitting the original camshaft bore. .

Magnetic pickup mounting plate bolts right in where the old points plate was.

Steel washers provided go under the heads of the allen bolts (shcs) provided and the two machined aluminum spacers go behind the plate to hold it in the proper mounting position.

Small metal dowels provided in the mounting holes for the coil save damage to the plastic coil mounting flange.

Coil with steel mounting spacers on the left, aluminum mounting spacers shown where they go on the rear of the timing plate center, magnet trigger shown installed with red locktite on the 8mm mounting rod at the top right.

Magnetic trigger in its installed position in the camshaft left end.

Stepped bushing, flat washer, lock washer, and the nut that secure the rod are all that goes on the right side end.

With the crank position set at the total lead position (shown below) the timing magnets are set with the white dot of paint on either magnet visable centered in the timing setting hole provided in the sensor plate at the red arrow above.

The mark at number 4 above is the TDC (top dead center) timing mark that is in the center of a small square recess in the stator that is bolted and keyed to the left end of the crankshaft. Set that rotor TDC mark (#4) to line up with the line at # 3 above. Number 3 is the total lead mark where the timing is set. All you do is turn the crank with a 17mm socket to line up #3 and #4 above, and set the white dot on either magnet in the previous image above this one at the red arrow in the timing index hole and that's it. You can check the timing with a timing light later if you like, or advance or retard it to your liking. Number 2 was used for setting the points, and number 1 indicates when the pistons are at top dead center.

I moved the rubber coated control box #1 (above) from the center of the forward frame cavity, it slid on bracket #2. I tie wrapped it with wire ties to the unused right hand coil bracket. Then I bent down the forward bracket #2 to allow the digital control box to be located in that empty forward space. (see below also) The flasher #3, I simply turned around the rubber mounting bracket to offset it to the right side and allow room to mount the new coil on the old left hand coil mounting bracket.

I sandwiched the solid state control box in some foam padding in its final position behind the steering head.

I made two coil mounting spacers from some 3/8" OD stainless tubing that are 1.250" long. Any type of plumping pipe or spacers could be used. 12-24 screws fit through the supplied small coil mounting flange dowels perfectly. Washers are on each side are to prevent crushing the plastic flange and they fit against the metal dowel inserts that come in the coil.

Stock left hand coil mounting bracket gets one 1/4" hole drilled in it. I mounted the new coil on the front two holes above, and used the old rear mounting hole for a chassis/engine ground.

Coil mounting bolts are tightened with red locktite on the screws. I ran the red wire from the digital control box with the spade connector already crimped on it to the + terminal marked on the coil, then cut it in the center at the fold above to bring switched voltage through the stock power supply red wire with the white tracer from the stock female double bullet connector. (see below image)

I installed the 2 male bullet connectors provided with the kit and plugged them right into the stock harness power connector to the old coils above. Now switched voltage goes to the coil, and to the digital control box. The black wire from the control box plugs right on the negative coil connection. The white wire from the control box I ran to ground (earth) and bolted it in the old unused stock coil mounting hole above. The only other connections are the pair of wires at the top above, (black with a white tracer, and black with a yellow tracer) they simply plug into the pair coming from the magnet trigger sensor plate. That's all the connections except for the high tension spark plug wires! (below)

I soldered on the special high tension wire coil terminal connectors.

The spark plug wire length provided I cut exactly in half, and those lengths worked fine for both cylinders. The new NGK resistor plug caps (also provided) have a self tapping screw in the end that you screw right in to the spark plug wire.

Everything is shown in this one image, all the wire connections and where they go, except the spark plug wire on the right side!

This tester I made long ago by soldering a spark plug on a clip, that is clamped on the connector end of a spark plug, and the plug wire is installed on to it. Both plugs will fire while the engine is running. (below)

The ignition system improves starts, idle and revs through the rpm range perfectly. It has a big fat spark, shown above while the engine is running! The ignition is firing the engine spark plug and the tester spark plug at the same time on the right hand side!